POR-15 FAQ's
POR-15
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
POR-15 is a rust-preventive paint
designed for application directly on rusted or seasoned metal surfaces.
It dries to a rock-hard, non-porous finish that won’t chip, crack, or peel,
and it prevents rust from re-occurring by protecting metal from further
exposure to moisture. POR-15 is sensitive to UV light (sun) and
must be topcoated before prolonged exposure to sunlight. POR-15
is cured and strengthened by exposure to moisture and will dry faster under
extreme humidity, but moderate to dry atmospheric conditions are most
desirable when applying this product, because extreme humidity may
cause an immediate surface cure, trapping carbon dioxide gas below the
surface. When this happens, bubbling may occur. Extreme humidity at the
time of application may also interfere with proper adhesion of the POR-15 coating to metal because it’s almost impossible to keep metal dry under such conditions.
POR-15
APPLICATION PROCEDURES
Surface preparation:
Rusted surfaces are best; seasoned metal
and sandblasted surfaces are also good.
To coat smooth metal surfaces:
Use POR-15 METAL-READY to prepare
surface before painting. Surface must be dry and free of grease, oil, or
other foreign substances. Use of 'rust converter' products is not recommended
as they may affect bonding of POR-15 to metal. POR-15 likes
to adhere to surfaces with 'tooth' rather than smooth, glossy surfaces.
STIR CONTENTS THOROUGHLY before
painting. Do not shake.
Refrigerate unused portion of POR-15
for longer shelf life.
Apply in thin coats, 1 to 2 mil thickness.
Minimum 2 coats.
Topcoat when first coat is dry but with
slight finger-drag remaining, usually 4-5 hours.
SPRAY APPLICATION:
Use 30-35 lbs pressure for normal gloss.
Reduce pressure for lower gloss (20-25 lbs). Thin only with POR-15
Solvent, if necessary.
TO TOPCOAT A FULLY CURED POR-15
SURFACE:
Wet sand with 600 grit until gloss is
dull, then paint, or use POR-15 Tie-Coat Primer directly on the
cured POR-15 surface, then topcoat as desired. NOTE:
Never topcoat a POR-15 surface that hasn't cured, as this will ruin
the coat already down.
Use POR-15 Solvent or lacquer thinner
for cleanup, which must be done before POR-15 dries. NOTE:
Organic vapor particulate respirators, NIOSH/MSHA approved, must be used
when spraying POR-15.
Moisture will shorten the life of unused
POR-15.
Seal can or jar immediately after using.
QUESTIONS
AND ANSWERS
MANY
PRODUCTS CLAIM TO STOP RUST; SOME ARE PAINTS, SOME ARE CONVERSION PRODUCTS,
SOME ARE RUST TREATMENTS. NONE SEEM TO REALLY STOP RUST PERMANENTLY. WHY
IS POR-15 DIFFERENT, AND WHY SHOULD I BELIEVE IT WILL WORK ANY BETTER?
Rust is caused by moisture coming in contact
with metal, which causes a chemical action called oxidation. All paints
provide a measure of protection for a while, but since they are eventually
softened and weakened by moisture, it is only a matter of time before moisture
penetrates the painted surface and attacks the metal below. All of the
so-called rust preventive paints on the market (except POR-15) are
weakened by exposure to moisture. POR-15 is strengthened by exposure
to moisture. Notice the hardness of the POR-15 coating. It doesn’t
chip, crack, or peel like ordinary paints do, and its hardness will resist
the wear and tear of every day life. Rust conversion products claim to
change the chemical nature of rust and convert it to a more stable element
that won’t rust again. History of the failure of these products is well
documented; most simply don’t work for more than a few months at best,
and they are subject to the same chipping and cracking that occurs with
ordinary rust coatings. POR-15 works because it chemically bonds
to rusted metal and forms a rock- hard, non-porous coating that won’t crack,
chip, or peel. It keeps moisture away from metal with a coating that is
strengthened by continued exposure to moisture.
IS IT BETTER
TO BRUSH OR SPRAY POR-15?
Most people brush it on, but many spray
also. Proper equipment and organic vapor particulate respirators for solvents
are essential for spraying.
HOW DO I THIN
POR-15 IF I WANT TO SPRAY IT?
You should use only POR-15 Solvent
for thinning. Keep lacquer thinner handy for clean-up. Do not thin POR-15
more than 5%.
CAN I PAINT OVER
POR-15 WITH OTHER PAINTS?
Absolutely. POR-15 will accept
all paints, including lacquer-based paints. POR-15 Tie-Coat Primer
is the best prime coat to use before topcoating POR-15. Be sure
to read thoroughly our directions and tip sheets regarding topcoating before
using POR-15.
CAN I USE BODY
FILLER OR PUTTY WITH POR-15?
Yes. First paint both sides of the rusted
area with POR-15; then use body filler or putty as soon as the POR-15
is dry to the touch.
HOW LONG DOES
IT TAKE POR-15 TO DRY?
That depends on the ambient humidity (surrounding
area). The more humid the area, the faster the dry time, which usually
varies from 3 to 6 hours.
IS IT DANGEROUS
TO GET POR-15 ON MY HANDS?
No, but if you do, remove it at once with
solvent or lacquer thinner. If POR-15 dries on your skin, nothing
will take it off, and you will “wear” it for 3 or 4 days until natural
oils and flaking skin remove it.
ARE THE POR-15
VAPORS DANGEROUS TO MY HEALTH?
Yes. That’s why you must always paint
in a well-ventilated area and keep your nose away from the paint container.
POR-15 is not dangerous if you follow our simple directions.
WHAT IS THE BEST
SURFACE ON WHICH TO PAINT POR-15?
POR-15 likes rusted surfaces best.
Seasoned metal and sandblasted metal are also good. POR-15 does
not adhere well to smooth, shiny surfaces, but will adhere well to those
surfaces with the proper preparation.
WHAT IS THE 'PROPER
PREPARATION'?
We make a product called “Metal-Ready”.
It's a rust remover that leaves a zinc phosphate coating on base metal,
the perfect preprimer for POR-15. NOTE: New steel is coated with
a protective oil finish at the mill. This finish must be removed before
using POR-15 or Metal-Ready. Clean metal first with POR-15
Marine-Clean, then rinse with water and dry.
WHICH POR-15
(BLACK, SILVER, GRAY, CLEAR) SHOULD I USE?
Silver contains metal filler and should
be used in badly rusted, pitted areas. It will fill in holes better than
black or clear. Black is generally used on frames, underside of fenders,
etc. because that’s the usual color there. Clear renders the smoothest
finish and is often used as a preprimer on exterior surfaces; Gray is great
on concrete floors, bilges, storage areas, as well as steel.
MUST I PAINT
OVER POR-15 TO MAKE IT LAST?
No, but POR-15 has an ultra-violet
sensitivity and must be topcoated if continually exposed to sunlight. Once
topcoated, POR-15 will remain effective for many years.
WILL THE SUN
DESTROY MY POR-15 COATING IF I DON'T TOPCOAT IT?
No, your POR-15 protection will
remain, but the sun will change its appearance cosmetically. That's why
we recommend you topcoat it.
CAN I APPLY POR-15
OVER OTHER PAINTS?
Yes, but you will lose the important benefits
of POR-15. You must remember that ordinary paints are weakened by
exposure to moisture. POR-15 can't stop rust if it isn't in direct
contact with the base metal.
CAN POR-15 BE
USED WITH FIBERGLASS?
Absolutely. POR-15 is fully compatible
with fiberglass and can be used to repair cracks in gelcoat. It will adhere
better than polyester resin and has greater strength. Use also with fiberglass
cloth to make super-strong surfaces in rusted-out areas. But be aware that
POR-15 doesn't contain styrene and thus cannot melt fiberglass cloth
like polyester resin does.
TIPS
APPLYING POR-15
TO SEASONED OR RUSTED METAL:
First, wire brush loose rust and scale.
Then remove any grease or oil with POR-15 MARINE=CLEAN and prep
with POR-15 METAL-READY. DO NOT USE SOLVENT- BASED CLEANERS.
PRIMING OVER POR-15:
Use POR-15
Tie-Coat Primer after POR-15 is dry, following directions on can.
Tie-Coat Primer may be sprayed or brushed in multiple coats if desired.
Sands to a perfect finish.
CHROME MOULDING
CLIPS can scratch a new paint job when they are pushed through the
body. POR-15, even if scratched off, will only rust where it’s removed,
so rust won’t travel upward to ruin that new paint job. Coat around holes
and under chrome before you prime and paint.
ROOF DRIP RAILS
are a place where rust begins early. Put on a coat of POR-15 and
let dry. Then apply a second coat, wait for it to dry, then apply a coat
of POR-15 Tie-Coat Primer and topcoat as desired.
STAINLESS STEEL
TRIM PIECES that push down around the windshield...if they won’t stay
down, put some POR-15 in the channel and brace it with wood strips
overnight. Regarding windshields, with the rubber removed, put a coat of
POR-15 around the body where the rubber rests; this is a high humidity
area and should be sealed with POR-15. POR-15 INSIDE REAR
EXHAUSTS will stop rust where it starts.
LOWER COWL
SECTIONS, ROCKER PANELS, LOWER PORTION OF FENDERS AND REAR QUARTERS, INSIDE
DOORS are other good places to coat with POR-15.
RUSTED OUT PINHOLES:
Put a piece of tape behind the larger pinholes, then paint. When the paint
dries, pull the tape off and paint the back side as well. POR-15
can be used to seal gas tanks, also, and POR-15 PUTTY will take
care of larger holes.
OLD CARDBOARD
INTERIOR PIECES AND MOLDED VINYL VISORS can be coated with POR-15
and then painted over with vinyl dye.
REMINDER: POR-15 SHOULD BE STIRRED, not shaken, each time you use it.
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